Meet Chef David Vargas: Elevating Mexican Food in Portsmouth, NH

Brayden Rudert & Sarah Tazziz

If you can’t travel to Mexico to try its finest flavors, the next best option is Vida Cantina. Chef and owner David Vargas, a multiyear James Beard semifinalist, serves innovative Mexican food in Portsmouth, NH, at his celebrated restaurant, Vida Cantina.

Culinary Roots: Lessons from a California Family Kitchen

Vargas was raised in Southern California by his parents, who are originally from Mexico. His family owned a restaurant in California, where he spent much of his youth.

“My culture is based around food and family – it’s the backbone of everything we do,” he says.

At the time, Vargas didn’t realize how those early years would shape his restaurant. As he began creating recipes, he says, “I grew a love for what I knew already.”

When he reflects on his career and mentors, Vargas acknowledges that many people have helped him, but he highlights his mother’s role.

“I owe a lot to my mom,” he says. “Every day, she made dinner for us, even with a full-time work schedule.” He also credits his spouse and says, “I owe a lot to my wife, who is a phenomenal cook. Her flavor-building has helped shape my palate.”

Brayden Rudert & Sarah Tazziz

Cantina Meets the Coast: Local New England Ingredients

When Vargas opened the restaurant, his initial vision was to have a strong community focus and create an environment that felt like a “gathering place to be with family,” he says. He has accomplished this by hosting events like Community Night, an evening dedicated to donating to local causes, and establishing a partnership with Tuckaway Farm through his local tortilla company, Vida Tortilla. By sourcing heirloom corn directly from area growers, Vida Tortilla ensures that every meal served is rooted in the regional landscape.

At Vida Cantina, the focus is on balancing traditional Mexican flavors and techniques with the specific ingredients and tastes of New England.

“That has been the best part of living in this area – understanding not only the demographic of our community but also of what is available to us,” he says.

What to Order at Vida Cantina: Tacos, Maíz and Masa

For first-timers sitting down to experience his award-winning Portsmouth, NH dining, Vargas has a simple recommendation: start with the tacos.

“Everything in our kitchen revolves around maíz and masa (corn and dough); it’s the heart of our cuisine,” he says.

When asked about being an award- winning chef, he says he is grateful.

“I feel very blessed to be nominated by my peers for such an award. It’s been great to see what it has done for the restaurant, which has been such a positive thing for our employees,” he says.

Brayden Rudert & Sarah Tazziz

Chef David Vargas’s Favorite Local Restaurants

After you’ve experienced the incredible flavors at Vida Cantina, Chef Vargas suggests exploring some of his other personal favorite eateries in the region. If you are looking for more exceptional places to eat in Portsmouth, NH, and beyond, check out his top picks:

• Durbar Square: An authentic, highly rated Nepalese cuisine concept located in downtown Portsmouth.
• Tulsi: A spectacular, traditional Indian restaurant located just across the river in neighboring Kittery, Maine.