A Chef’s Take on the Best Restaurants in Bismarck, North Dakota
For Kenny Howard, North Dakota native, restaurant owner and chef, returning to Bismarck after stints in Minneapolis and San Francisco marked a new chapter, both personally and professionally.
Howard grew up in Mandan, North Dakota, but Ieft to attend the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, where he graduated with a design communication degree. Around that time, the job market in his field stalled, so Howard began working at restaurants – first at a casual cafe, then fine-dining spots.
“That opened me up to what the world of restaurants entailed,” he says.
Kenny Howard
Restaurant Owner and Chef
Howard and his wife moved to San Francisco, where, despite working a job more aligned with his education, he couldn’t shake the foodie itch.
“I got interested in wood-fired pizza, and we’d hit up all these spots in the area,” he says. “It exposed me to another level of food.”
When the couple opted to return to North Dakota to raise their son close to family, they decided to make a go of it with a mobile Neapolitan-style eatery called Fireflour, which Howard launched in 2012. They hit the festival circuit, and Howard says they were fortunate to develop a loyal following quickly. That led to a brick-and-mortar outpost of Fireflour in Bismarck, North Dakota, and in 2018, a sister restaurant named Anima Cucina, which is focused on wine and Italian bar food. In 2024, Howard was named a James Beard Award semifinalist for best chef in the Midwest region.
We sat down with Howard to find out five of his favorite restaurants in Bismarck, North Dakota.
In This Article
Cali Burritos
True food lovers know better than to judge an eatery by its exterior, even when the exterior is that of an Exxon gas station. When it comes to Bismarck, North Dakota, restaurant Cali Burritos, don’t be deterred by the unusual location; you won’t be held hostage by roller-grill hot dogs or stale coffee.
“It’s definitely a ‘food comes first’ situation,” says Howard of the counter-service joint. “They do everything from scratch. I hit the tacos.”
He especially enjoys the carne asada or al pastor tacos, but the menu also boasts tortas on telera rolls, which are made fresh at a Mexican bakery in nearby Mandan, loaded nachos and burritos, including the eponymous California-style monster stuffed with meat, french fries, guacamole and sour cream.
Noodlezip
“It’s a mom-and-pop place,” Howard says of Noodlezip, a casual restaurant in Bismarck, North Dakota, whose bright dining room is as cute as its name. “I like what they do and what they put out. They don’t cut any corners.”
As expected, the pan-Asian spot focuses on a variety of noodle dishes – pad thai, ramen, pho – with a solid list of appetizers, including kimchi, dumplings, pork buns and Korean-style wings. The kitchen has some surprises, though. It turns out lesser-known dishes like dry pho, in which classic pho ingredients, like rice noodles, meat and bean sprouts, are served stir-fry style in a thick sauce, rather than a steaming bowl of broth.
“They ran out of broth,” Howard says with a laugh, speculating about the dish’s origin. It’s one of Howard’s favorite dishes at Noodlezip, along with the Sichuan dan dan noodles. The spot hosts regular tasting dinners, such as its recent 10-course Taste of Korea and Japanese Pub Food menus, for diners who wish to delve deeper into Asian cuisine.
Eat Thai Café
Eat Thai Café launched as a food truck in 2015, and three years later, it opened its door as a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Bismarck, North Dakota. The space always seems crowded, thanks to devoted diners who clamber into the space with the hopes of grabbing a seat or, if they are unsuccessful, a hefty takeout order. Howard’s go-to order is the spring rolls and the uber-colorful mixed veggie stir fry that’s loaded up with carrots, purple cabbage, broccoli and mushrooms. The menu boasts plenty of other Thai classics like larb (a minced meat salad), chicken satay, a trio of curries and pad see ew.
Pirogue Grille
“If I want to do classic American food in a fine-dining setting, it’s Pirogue Grille,” Howard says. “Chef Stuart Tracy is a very talented chef. Pirogue is always a very good experience, always really well made and all from scratch.”
Despite the upscale setting, the experience at this Bismarck, North Dakota, restaurant isn’t fussy.
“It’s not like you’re wearing a suit to go there,” Howard says, and the menu consists of impeccably executed comfort food. Think housemade venison sausage, steak served with bourbon-mustard sauce, artichokes, chicken and pasta in a creamy mushroom sauce, and chocolate malt cheesecake.
Be sure to check Pirogue’s social media for updates on its weekly specials, like pork belly braised in gochujang served alongside kimchi. Its tactics must be working; Pirogue is celebrating 20 years in business this year.
JL Beers
Every city needs a solid burger and beer joint, and for Howard, that restaurant in Bismarck, North Dakota, is JL Beers. Despite its moniker, the downtown spot serves up more than just brews. In addition to nearly 40 beers on tap, it offers a list of burgers that are topped with everything from peanut butter and red pepper jelly to mushrooms and teriyaki sauce as well as housemade potato chips.
The over-21 spot boasts broad appeal. Its clientele “is all over the board,” Howard says. “There are older college kids, of course, a lot of young professionals, a lot of older people.” He attributes part of that to its accessible price point.
“It’s pretty approachable pricewise,” he says. “Everything is a la carte. It’s $10 or $11 for the burger (that’s with a double patty), and you can get out of there with a beer for $15 or $20.”
This article was sponsored by the North Dakota Department of Commerce.